Terraces, ultras, neighbourhoods and the people who make a matchday what it is.
Three stands, no car park, no online tickets and a queue that starts the night before. A first-hand guide to Estadio de Vallecas, where Rayo Vallecano play and the neighbourhood watches from its balconies.
A working-class corner of Madrid, a club founded by socialists in 1912, and the terrace that still refuses to let football become a product.
